Terroir Parisien happiness (Local ingredients, a handsome waiter and a lot of rillettes)

The Lardy Ladies were still getting to know each other when we fell collectively in love with Oliver Rowe’s ‘everything sourced within the M25 menu’ at Konstam at the Prince Albert, tragically closed for some years now. Yannik Alléno’s Terroir Parisien is surely Konstam’s rightful successor for locally sourced deliciousness, though the locality is a little further afield for us Londoners: the fifth arrondissement of Paris.

Picture courtesy of http://www.sugarednspiced.com/paris-terroir-parisien/

Picture courtesy of Stylistic http://www.stylistic.fr/2012/04/restaurant-terroir-parisien-yannick-alleno_15394

I wouldn’t start a trip to Paris with Terroir Parisien. A first night demands a fix of classic bistro fare, carafes of wine and cheek-by-jowl Paris seating to shake off some of the Englishness (I recommend the delicious Brasserie Balzar, not least for the maitre d’s walrus moustache). Then by night two, Terroir Parisien’s understated decor, classic Parisien dishes and actual space between tables will seem just right.

Yannik Alléno has a three Michelin star pedigree, but Terroir Parisien is a reaction against the anonymous, starchy fancy-pants-ness of fine dining (my words, not his), and a return to his roots and local, seasonal produce – spinach from Montfermeil, beets from Berruier and Clamard peas.

Now, we’ve established many times that I am greedy. Our rather handsome waiter raised not an eyebrow at my order of the three pots of rillettes – duck, pork and chicken – a dish intended for sharing between two. They were the same price as a starter so really I couldn’t resist. I appreciated his lack of judgement; my companions were less polite.

What’s better than a pot of rillettes? Three pots of rillettes.

In stark contrast was the healthy option of salade de petits legumes du terroir parisien, quite the most beautiful and delicious salad I have eaten. (Yes I tried some, on top of three pots of rillettes. We have established the greed.) The salad had a light, sour, mustardy dressing which enriched the crunchy slivers of vegetables.

Spring salad

The caviar du pauvre – beluga lentils, nutmeg cream and blinis – was gobbled up before I could even demand a mouthful. The three pots of rillettes distracted me, darn it.

Caviar du pauvre

Mains were just as good. Navarain d’agneau with spring vegetables was the best of spring lamb casseroles, the meat tender but strongly flavoured, the beans and carrots still with a good bite to them and a homely, thick sauce around the lamb.

Navarain d’agneau

Even the potatoes were perfectly cooked, with just a little bite to them, but I abandoned them anyhow in favour of the frankly awesome tower of frites we ordered as a side.

Oh the frites!

As a child, I was convinced (and thoroughly disturbed) that my mother was enjoying guinea pig for her birthday lunch, 1987. (The date and childish horror at rodent-cuisine has stayed with me.) Eventually, of course, I realised the crucial guinea-related distinction between pig (rodent) and fowl. Confusing, really. Supreme de pintade aux petits legumes et herbes fines was tender, delicious, and definitely fowl.

Guinea fowl

And a daily special of chicken was a firm meat, robust and juicy in its lovely gravy, perched on a bed of yellow courgettes and carrots.

Daily special – volaille

Of course we had to make room for dessert – we were only in Paris two nights! And it was worth it, for quite the best pudding I can ever recall eating: the day’s special of a small glass of slightly macerated strawberries in whisked mascarpone, with small wands of crunchy sweet pastry. The picture is lousy, the dessert was not.

Believe me this was taste heaven. lousy picture notwithstanding

Did I need another excuse for regular visits to Paris? No. But I have found one.

Eva

Terroir Parisien, 20 rue Saint Victor, 75005, Paris http://www.yannick-alleno.com/carnet/terroir-parisien/